Brian Pendreigh's Heart of Leith tour: Scotland's former capital and home of golf

Consistently rated one of the coolest neighborhoods in the world by Time Out magazine, Edinburgh's picturesque harbor has a rich history, from Plague Times and the romantic Mary Queen of Scots to the cult novel Trainspotting and the luxury yacht in the one where Charles and Di spent their honeymoon. .

 It is also the birthplace of the modern sport of golf. Sound the horn... no, not St Andrews... Leith Links.

 Leith is a short tram ride from Princes Street. (Buy your £2 ticket by card at the machine before you board). The Shore tram stop is just a few minutes walk from our departure point at Leith Community Croft.

 Learn the sinister truth about two mysterious little hills in Leith Links... and the terrible secret hidden beneath the cricket and football pitches.

 Now officially part of Edinburgh, there was a time in the 16th century when Leith was the de facto capital of Scotland. Then there was the Siege of Leith in which the Scots and French fought the English and, uh, some other Scots. And a few years later there was the war between Edinburgh and Leith.

 Gentrification and deprivation coexist just a stone's throw from the sea and the banks of the Water of Leith.
 The Shore offers a great opportunity for photographers on a sunny day. And, as the Proclaimers song goes, it's always sunny in Leith (except the day I took most of the photos). If you don't know it, look it up and hum it as you walk around the harbor with an award-winning writer, an officially licensed guide, and a local resident. (That's me, not three different people, by the way.)

"Very informative, even for a local Leither! Brian is a fantastic and accommodating tour guide." Anne, June 2025

"This tour guide was remarkably pleasant and his details of Leith and its history made the tour interesting. Would absolutely recommend this tour to all my friends and family." Kathleen, Toronto, June 2025