The Tantric Matriarchal Trail to discover ancient Kathmandu
This is a three-hour heritage walk offered every day, beginning at 08:00 and 15:00 near Hotel Aloft in Thamel. We start from the Thamel Bhagwati Temple and make our way through Basantapur and the surrounding bazaar lanes, exploring hidden corners of the old city. Along the way, we provide insights into tantric sculptures, temples, and the historical transformation of Kathmandu Valley’s matriarchal foundations as they were gradually replaced by patriarchal traditions.
The tour concludes back in Thamel, followed by a two-hour interactive Tantric lunch, where we continue the conversation and dive deeper into the themes discovered during the walk.
A central focus of the experience is the Grandmother Goddess, or Ajima, whose presence is woven into the cultural and spiritual landscape of the Valley. The Ajima tradition is deeply interconnected with Tantric practices, viewing these grandmother goddesses as powerful protectors of the city. During the walk, we explore how these beliefs manifest in rituals such as the Luti Ajima Jatra, which incorporates fire rituals, symbolic offerings, and elements inherited from Newar ancestral worship.
We also discuss the matriarchal roots of the Valley:
- How the Ajima tradition reflects an era when female ancestral deities were central to community life.
- The meaning of the name “Ajima,” formed from Newari words for “grandmother” and “mother.”
- The Tantric symbolism that views the body as a sacred temple and celebrates feminine energy and sexuality—often in contrast with later patriarchal norms that sought to suppress them.
Throughout the tour, we trace how the forms of the Ajima deities evolved over centuries, blending local traditions with Vedic and Tantric influences, eventually giving rise to the worship of powerful goddesses such as Chamunda and Kali.
By the end of the experience, travelers gain not only a deeper understanding of the city’s sacred spaces but also an appreciation of the spiritual, social, and historical forces that have shaped Kathmandu into the place it is today.
*Entrance fee to Durbar Square - 1000 NPR
The tour lasts 3 hours
Available in English
Guide: Yadab
Guiding since 2025Involved in tourism since 2006. Master degree in Cultural History. MPhil in Tantra Culture. PhD scholar in Matriarchal history of Nepal. Writer, intangible cultural heritage scholar.
The Tantric Matriarchal Trail to discover ancient Kathmandu
Other cities after visiting Kathmandu
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